Chuck Hunner

This is the basic paper for my presentation at the Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology in Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA, May 2011.

This is not a scientific paper. It is about perspective and motivation. It’s about breathing life into a process that can be dry and mundane. It’s about bringing juiciness and fertility into an every-day activity.

Passion! What does that invoke in you?

Most of the passion feelings are active! For me it brings up feelings of fullness and richness. It’s hot colors and movement. If there is no action yet, there certainly is the desire for it! It is a hunger. It’s a reaching toward something you want to connect with.

What about Spirituality? What kind of feeling rises to meet this question?

Most of the Spirituality words will be softer, more internal and lead to listening.

Spirituality informs inspiration. Jewelry is a medium through which

passion can be expressed. If the inhale is Spirituality, passion is the exhale. One is receptive, the other expressive.

What do these things have to do with jewelry design? Passion and Spirituality are the two sides of inspiration that begin the design process.

We give jewelry as token of our different passions. We share diamonds and wedding bands to demonstrate our commitment to partnership. We receive graduation rings or retirement watches that show our devotion to a  university, a church, or football team. When we accomplish a big goal we might buy ourselves a gem as a reward. When we love a vacation we buy some souvenir to remind us of it.  We dress up by adding artful accents (more and less expensive) to our outfits. Each of these activities demonstrates our love for someone, for something, for our self. We develop our spirit of Love with jewelry.

When we are passionate about something, people around us notice. They can feel our strength of expression. Remember when someone was speaking to you passionately about something that inspired them? You could feel it. Their energy was palpable. Sometimes it’s even enough to draw you into it. Think ‘gifted comedians, charismatic politicians, charismatic preachers’. They excite us.

Expert sales people also put on this mantle of passion. Have you ever been convinced to buy something by a passionate sales person? Their enthusiasm draws you in. Later, you wonder why you bought it!

As jewelry designers, we often tap into the infectious energy of passion. Imagine when we’re designing rings for a group. Their enthusiasm infects us! We learn to love what is motivating them. I made a bunch of Rotary Club pins at one point and almost joined their organization because I was attracted by the passion my client held for his group.

Sometimes passion is just the desire to survive and pay all the bills. I have been in this place. In the early ‘70’s, I was a potter, making cups and bowls by the hundreds. It was hot, dirty, sometimes heavy work. I was invited over to some friends’ basement to make silver and turquoise rings. It was easy, fun and delicate work. I actually began to make enough money to pay my bills and save some! My passion for jewelry design grew and changed as I became more and more familiar with this media.

I have friends whose only inspiration today is to fulfill their customers’ desires and take home that paycheck. If their passion for something besides creating jewelry called, they’d hang up on it. They love making jewelry because they know how to do it well. They also make a more or less consistent amount of money each year. They say they are too old to do anything different and if they’re not making jewelry, are only qualified to work in a hardware store. But there is not much heart-felt inspiration in what they are doing. Don’t get me wrong. They love designing jewelry. But they’re not fully satisfied with their day job.

What’s the spirit of a thing?

Spirituality usually brings to mind religion. It is concerned with sacred matters or religion or the church or soul and passion for God, Creator, or Divinity.²

That definition for Spirituality connects directly with the religious. I define spirituality differently. The Spirit of a thing is its essence, its flavor. A flavor is something definable, even quantifiable. But it is subtle, usually fleeting, mostly subjective, almost secretive. What is a thing’s character? What is its essence? Does it stand out or blend in with its surroundings. Is it bland? Is it spicy? Is it dull? Is it bright? Is this spirit so attractive that we are irresistibly drawn to it? When the spirit of a thing deeply moves us and ignites our passions, we are inspired.

Spirituality is the internal receptive mode of inspiration. Passion is the outward expressive mode. Spirituality is whispering in our ear to “go for it”! Passion is the lunge! Passion is spirituality made physical. Passion comes through the heart. Something spiritual moves us and that movement is the passion being expressed. As we begin to explore the expression of our spirituality as a passion we may see it as a stream that flows from us into other streams of passion until we are being swept along in a flood of inspiration and enthusiasm.

Paula Abdul was a popular judge on the TV show “American Idol”. She was certainly passionate about discovering and nurturing new star entertainers. She is also a jewelry designer. She designed a piece of jewelry for each of the finalist contestants because she was passionate about them competing and passionate about them succeeding as stars. Her jewelry inspired each of them to push and work to be their best. Her jewelry line was eventually distributed through Sam’s Club and was called “Innergy”.³ She ended up inspiring millions of people with her passion for creating stars. Her idea was to inspire the contestants. Her spirituality (the idea that we can better ourselves)  led her to share her passion for jewelry with the contestants. Each piece of jewelry had a slogan on it. One of the slogans was, “Reach for the Stars, and you might just be one.”

It’s about being connected. When you wear that special ring or pendant, you are plugged into the whole energy of what the symbol is about. Connecting to the spirit of the thing allows us to plug into that which energizes us. When we’re passionate we express the energy of that thing. This creates a positive feedback loop that just keeps getting stronger and stronger. This expression is always rewarding.

Spirituality is about being connected with the essence of something. It could be considered on a spectrum. Survival at the beginning of the spectrum and, liberation and ultimate fulfillment at the end. Buying food and paying bills is at one end. Being devoted to working for some Higher Purpose is at the other end.

Spirituality can refer to ‘an inner path enabling a person to discover the essence of his or her being’². This is certainly one of the facets of jewelry design. Where do we find inspiration? Are we inspired by the way light reflects off a piece of mica or sunlight sparkles off the ocean?  The inner path might lead us to realize that we are much more valuable than we initially were taught. The path might lead to a happy radiance of Spirit that was unimaginable at the beginning of the journey. Each of us is in informed in a unique way by our brand of spirituality.

Spirituality becomes living their own  “deepest values and meanings.”³ .

Religious jewelry becomes the visible symbol of what is most important to the wearer. Images of various faiths’ jewelry – Cross for Christianity, Calligraphy for Islam, and Deva for Hinduism…It means something to each religion and evokes a passion inspired by deeper meaning.

This feeling of reverence can extend to the mundane. Stones that were in Grandma’s ring become touch stones to the power of the ancestors. A client might think “when I wear this new piece of jewelry I’ll be in touch with the Spirit of who she was.” Wearing the jewels of an ancestor is a way to bring their power for success into the present.

Jewelry design is making adornment to accent one’s appearance with rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, buckles, crowns or pins. Any material qualifies including felt, rubber, paper, wood, metals or glass as well as finer materials like precious metals and minerals. Usually attraction to jewelry intensifies as the materials become rarer. I am not as interested in a red and brown felted wool pin as I am in an enameled, gem encrusted, art nouveau, gold dragonfly pin. Each person’s experience will determine what they value most.

Jewelry is worn to inspire and impassion. It commemorates a moment or experience. It shows a commitment to a person or institution. It enhances appearance and makes one more beautiful. Behind all this is Love. Jewelry is worn for Love.

We focus our attention and our intention to love and be loved, by adorning ourselves with some art, some metal and stone. As this adornment increases in price or emotional charge, the intensity of focus increases. A love blossoms.

Once we find a passion we have the choice to express it. Sometimes the passion finds us! Imagine a class ring. Wearing a class ring with the school’s design helps to make the bond between classmates visible. We recognize our style ring on other classmates and immediately have something in common. It makes us related at a certain level. We are family. This is a passion for belonging with an institution.

Form also expresses meaning. Crosses remind Christians of Christ’s passion on the cross. Calligraphy of Quranic prayers remind Muslims of their passionate devotion to Allah and right action. Images of the Devas and Jyotish jewelry remind Hindis of their relationship with the Divine. Images of Confucius, Buddha, and the Tao keep Taoists in touch with something greater than themselves. Each has their own spiritual expression in precious metals and gems that shows their passion for their religion.

An early mention of the importance of jewelry in the Bible refers to the breast plate of the High Priest. There are12 stones set in the pendant so that the Priest will “bear not iniquity, and die“⁶. Here is a clear statement that ‘if you wear the right jewelry, you will be stronger’.

The breastplate could be likened to a radio receiver. It receives frequencies of vibration. A protective, just and healthy frequency is transferred to the High Priest through the breastplate by the particular arrangement of the individual gems.

A similar transfer of frequency works through any piece of jewelry. It might not be protection or justice from some Higher Power that someone is getting from their jewelry. It might be frequencies of confidence, worthiness, or Love. Yet they are closer to the rewards of their spirituality by wearing the symbol.

Christian crosses, saints, angels, prayer amulets, and rosaries remind us of the passion of Christ’s suffering on the cross. St. Christopher medals protect travelers. Pendants of the Saints connect the wearer to protective energies and empower them. Angel jewelry may carry messages from God to us.

Calligraphy and Quranic prayers support Muslim passion for right action and enhances worship of Allah. Prayer beads allow tactile contact during Quranic prayer.

Following the braids of Celtic knot work can be a meditation that allows union with the transcendental. Perhaps this is the way many Vikings traveled to Asgard to visit with their gods? Surely the designers of Celtic and Viking jewelry found much passion in their work. Meditation, getting very quiet and listening, is surely a way to find one’s own spirituality.

Hindu Gods and Goddesses and their symbols protect one of the largest groups of people on the planet. The passion borne of their spirituality might be defined as higher emotion and union with Divine. The Vedic Pantheon; Ganesha, Shiva/Parvati, Vishnu/ Lakshmi, Krishna/Radha and others are depicted in much of the 265 tons of Indian gold that each year is wedding jewelry! There is a plenty of Jyotish Jewelry in this tonnage too.

In India, Jyotish, or Eastern Astrology (the science and study of spiritual Light), recommends  special jewelry consisting of gems and metal alloys that focus energy to enhance our wellbeing.

When a client wears this sort of ring or pendant for the first time, their reaction is almost always obvious. They sigh, or laugh, or a tear comes to their eye. At the very worst, all the energy put into building meaning into this piece of jewelry impresses them psychosomatically. Armed with this sort of amulet, they go out and create their ideal world. This form of jewelry has been carefully studied and structured for thousands of years. With so much history and tradition behind it, there is little wonder that it inspires the wearer.

Jewelry speaks to us on many levels. Sparkle and shine always attracts the eye. Golden colors might remind us of a warm sun, or white of the full Moon on a cool, moonlit night. Perhaps a blue sapphire will remind us of the depths of a blue lagoon or a turquoise of the vastness of the sky. Just the colors speak deeply to us.

The colors and feel of gems and metals can elevate us from everyday existence and allow us to expand philosophically. Their spirit is refined and pure.

The weight of precious metals grounds us and impresses us with its greater mass. The cost of gems and jewelry impresses too! Heavy costs of precious objects are always remembered. Each of these facts impresses us rationally and also, subconsciously depending on our sensitivity. The world of jewelry is rich with metaphor and clearly defined meaning.

Prosperity symbols remind us of our passion for wealth and enrichment for material’s sake. Many in our civilization worship money. In fact, the idea of portable wealth is always in the background of jewelry. Sometimes our passion for jewelry may be called to support our passion for survival. I met and worked with several Vietnamese gentlemen in Albuquerque. They and their wives had worn Bhat chains of 22kt gold when they escaped from South Vietnam in 1975. They arrived in the USA with the clothes on their backs and enough gold chain to allow them a fresh start on their own terms.

Large, high quality diamonds, rubies, and emeralds are certainly one of the most condensed forms of wealth. Passion for wealth often dictates that you be able to take it with you. The wealthy are often targets of political change. This may necessitate fleeing your home. If you are careful, and wealthy, maybe you can take it with you!

On a higher level, a sizable fortune can be transported via a handful of 3 carat DF diamonds or via a couple of 25 carat diamonds of similar grade. Royal gems bring royal abundance. Plus, you get to sell them back to royalty when you want to sell them. Silver jewelry will bring something, but seldom passionate amounts of money.

Carl Faberge, Renee Lalique, Tiffany & Young and others left a large body of precious art that still inspires the passion of collectors. Fine art in precious materials is always appreciated by well educated communities. Too often jewelry is sold in pawn shops and converted to bullion.

I met a gentleman the other day who was wearing a Winston Cup ring. He was not a driver but the head of PR for a winning racing team. When he negotiated his salary, he specified that he would receive a ring for each championship his client won. This entitled him to wear one of the team rings. It was a very large ring but he is a very large man and wore it well. Our society focuses deep passion on winning competitions and rewarding the competitors

There is a passion of loyalty to the institution that gave you your intellectual advantage. Graduates not only buy heavy class rings to commemorate their alma maters but continue their passion for the schools by making donations to them too.

Spiritual jewelry will always have a market because people buy their passions. Remember that this spirit might only be a flavor of an event or association.

When I lived in Florida I did a good business in nautical charms. Tourists were passionate about souvenirs of their visit to Florida. I was passionate about running on the beach and being closer to Nature each day.

I noticed the sea turtles come ashore in the late spring and lay their eggs. I saw the baby turtles begin their lives with a dash to the sea. I was inspired by them. I had clients who were also inspired by an endangered species struggling to survive. These two passions matched and I sold a lot of nautical jewelry in those days.

Wedding Rings portray the passion of lifelong partnership. Diamonds and gold express eternal indestructibility and immutable value. This is a great metaphor to apply to any relationship, especially one between partners that will produce children who need a solid foundation.

There is a special jewelry passion associated with mile stones in our lives. I still have a silver cup from my Grandmother that was given me on the occasion of my birth. My father gave my mother a charm for her charm bracelet each year on their wedding anniversary. There is also a charm for each of her children. A watch is given to the retiring manager. I was given a gold ring I designed and produced for a jewelry company when I left them.

Each of these different areas – partnership, tribe/community, reward, religious, financial and souvenir – finds connection with passion through wearing jewelry.    Every one of the people wearing these objects has some story of passion, more or less intense, to tell about their piece of jewelry.

Where do we find our inspiration in jewelry design? Where ever there is a human passion. The design might come from a pleasant memory. Michele Alexander in Asheville, North Carolina produced her Ribbon Candy line just before Christmas. She fondly remembered Christmas’ past and the taste of sweet ribbon candy. She was sharing her passion for her delight around Christmas time.

Inspiration could come out of a dream at night. Imagine having a dream walking through a mountain meadow and coming upon a group of jewelry benches. On a central bench lay a sculpture with three chicken heads. Not exactly a commercial design, but dream inspired design nevertheless.

It might be a misinterpretation of a piece of jewelry seen dimly across a room  while having coffee and then reinterpreted by the designer.

I met a designer in Florida who would close his eyes when alone and go into a trance and visit beings from some inner world of his. They brought him designs. He was very successful. Perhaps another of his successes was spinning an intriguing yarn?

Another client of mine believed that in a former life, she was a Viking queen buried on the ship at Sutton Hoo. She made a lot of money and made a lot of people very happy with her jewelry designs. She did create some very beautiful Viking inspired jewelry.

Passion is informed by our culture, our upbringing, our spirituality.

Sometimes the inspirations for our designs are very left brained and logical. A sports club comes to the company with a logo that they want reproduced into a line of jewelry. You scan the design, build the vector graphic and feed it into your prototyping machine. You can’t get much more linear than that! We follow the money.

We are motivated by our passions whether they are about money, power, survival or love.

Love tells us where to go. Passion gets us there. Money, power, survival, and love are not what it’s about though there is a Divine component to it.

Passion and spirituality are the two sides of inspiration. Truthfully, you can’t have one without the other.

At the most basic level – Passion is about feelings. Wearing a piece of jewelry reminds us of when and why we got it. It can connect us, once again to what we felt – the camaraderie, the love, the inspiration, the pride, the achievement.

Our job, our purpose as jewelers is to provide the physical representation of that feeling.

Acknowledgements

I am grateful to my friends in the Southern Highland Craft Guild for their willingness to share their time and insights. Especially Tom Reardon and Michele Alexander. This paper is as much Annette Hunner’s as it is Chuck’s. Thanks, Annette!

I’m also grateful to Pandit D. S. Dixit in Kanpur, India for his kind tutelage and warm friendship. Thanks to Janet Bray-Attwood and Chris Attwood who helped me define my passions and allowed me to direct my life in a way I didn’t think possible.

Thanks to the Santa Fe Symposium for the motivation to share my passions.

1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passion_(emotion)
2. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirituality
3. Ibid.
4. http://www.paula-abdul.net/html/article_99.html
5. Johari, Harish, Healing Power of Gemstones, 2^nd edition, 1996, Destiny Books.
6. Exodus 28:43, New King James Version,  And they shall be upon Aaron, and upon his sons, when they come in unto the tabernacle of the congregation, or when they come near unto the altar to minister in the holy place; that they bear not iniquity, and die: it shall be a statute for ever unto him and his seed after him.